Travel Journal · May 2026 · Valletta · Mdina · Gozo
My wife let me plan this one entirely on my own. I had something to prove and Malta delivered beyond anything I could have scripted.
Let me just say it upfront: Malta gets a 10 out of 10, and I genuinely cannot wait to go back. This was the kind of trip that recalibrates how you think about travel historically staggering, affordable in the best way, and just endlessly surprising. I’d been quietly obsessing over the planning for months, and when it all came together, the feeling was something else entirely.
We were based in Valletta, Malta’s capital, for the trip and if I had to describe it simply, I’d say it’s one of the most impressive open-air museums on earth. Every street corner tells a story. Every building has centuries behind it. And yet it never felt like a museum in the stiff, roped-off sense. It felt alive, safe and welcoming. Genuinely good value for the quality of food, entertainment, and lodging we experienced, we kept looking at each other saying “how is this so cheap?”
Home Base: The Capitol Hotel
Our home for the trip was The Capitol Hotel in Valletta, and it was an outstanding choice. Centrally located we could walk to nearly everything with a staff that was genuinely warm and helpful throughout our stay. The breakfast was great every morning, which is something I always appreciate in a hotel.
But the real bonus? The rooftop bar. I made a habit of ending most evenings up there with a drink, looking out over the city. That view, with a cold glass in hand after a full day of exploring, became one of my favorite rituals of the entire trip.
The Perfect Start: Dark Malta Tours
I’d been following Mario from Dark Malta Tours on Facebook for months before this trip, his content had me hooked long before we even booked flights. So when I had the chance to join one of his walking tours on our very first night, I jumped at it. It exceeded every expectation.
There’s something powerful about experiencing a new city on foot after dark, especially one as layered with history as Valletta. Mario’s tour set the tone for the entire week giving us context, stories, and a sense of the city that we carried with us through every subsequent exploration. If you’re visiting Malta, this is your first stop. Full stop.
A Day in Mdina
One of our best day trips was heading out to Mdina — the ancient walled city known as the Silent City and its neighbor Rabat. It was a true highlight of the trip.
St Paul’s Catacombs Walking underground through these early Christian burial chambers was genuinely cool eerie in the best possible way. A fascinating look at Malta’s deep history before the Knights ever arrived.
Mdina — The Silent City Ancient doesn’t begin to cover it. Walking those narrow limestone streets felt like stepping into another era entirely. The scale is small, the atmosphere is enormous. One of the most memorable places I’ve ever visited.
Fontanella Tea Garden This one had looked incredible in every photo I’d seen online. In person, it was even better. Perched on the ancient bastions of Mdina, looking out over the whole island the food was excellent, the desserts were exceptional, and the views were the kind you don’t forget. Lunch here was one of the purest moments of joy on the whole trip.
Island Hopping: Gozo
We dedicated a full day to Gozo, Malta’s quieter sister island, and signed up for the Pride Gozo Jeep Safari Tour, an 8-hour UTV adventure around the island. It was, without question, one of the highlights of the entire trip.
Our guide Benny was exceptional. The kind of guide who doesn’t just point at things and recite facts, but genuinely shows you the soul of a place. We hit what felt like the best the island had to offer, landscapes, history, coastline and a wonderful included lunch that I wasn’t expecting to be as good as it was. Eight hours flew by. If you’re going to Malta, do not skip Gozo, and do not skip this tour.
Valletta’s Greatest Hits
We spent the majority of the trip digging into Valletta itself, and honestly we could have spent another week and still not exhausted it. Here are the standouts:
St John’s Co-Cathedral ★ Top Highlight The undisputed number one for me. I was completely unprepared for it. The sheer scale of the art, the floor, Caravaggio’s masterwork it was breathtaking in the truest sense. I stood there speechless more than once. This alone is worth the trip to Malta.
The Grand Master’s Palace A close second for standout highlights. The scope of this museum, the armory, the tapestries, the sheer history packed into those rooms it left a real impression. Rich, immersive, and genuinely moving.
Underground Valletta A walking tour through the tunnels and bunkers beneath the city, tracing history from the Knights Hospitaller through World War II. What struck me most were the human stories what it meant for ordinary people to spend days, weeks, and months underground during the war. A little surreal, deeply affecting.
Fort St Elmo & the National War Museum A great stop for anyone with even a passing interest in WWII history. The fort itself has incredible views, and the museum does a fine job contextualising Malta’s pivotal and often overlooked role in the war.
Merchant & Republic Streets I could have spent days just wandering these two streets — the cafés, the shops, the people, the architecture. It was pure joy. This is where Valletta’s everyday life plays out, and it’s wonderful to be part of it, even briefly.
Upper Barrakka Gardens A beautiful, peaceful green space with sweeping views over the Grand Harbor. A perfect spot to pause, breathe, and take it all in.
The Food: Surprisingly World Class
I wasn’t sure what to expect from Malta’s dining scene going in. What I found was a genuinely impressive range from traditional Maltese to Italian to unexpectedly excellent Asian noodles all at prices that felt almost too good to be true.
Gambit Bistro — Best Meal of the Trip As far as food goes, this was it. The best meal we had on vacation, and maybe my favorite meal I’ve ever eaten. It was perfect the food, the setting inside the restaurant, the whole experience. This is exactly what you hope a special dinner abroad will be.
The Drunken Dumpling The best noodles I’ve ever had and we went back more than once. The staff were brilliant too. This place has no right being this good.
Muża Restaurant Lunch inside one of Valletta’s stunning museums. The setting alone makes it worth a visit, and the food matched the surroundings beautifully.
The Grotto Tavern A little fancier than my usual, but the atmosphere and service made it completely worthwhile. A solid splurge dinner.
Zero Sei Trattoria Romana Great Italian just around the corner from the hotel. Reliable, delicious, exactly what you need when you want a relaxed evening meal.
Cheeky Monkey Gastropub Fully American menu in the middle of Valletta, which felt absurd in the best way. The potato skins, inexplicably, were some of the best I’ve ever had. A mystery I’m happy to accept.
Wild Honey Beer House & Bistro Good beer, relaxed vibe. The kind of neighborhood spot you’d become a regular at if you lived nearby.
Starbucks Reserve Bar Valletta A full bar inside a Starbucks. I didn’t know this existed before Malta. Now I’m mildly obsessed. Super cool concept, beautifully executed.
Would I Go Back?
Without hesitation. The moment we landed home, I was already mentally planning a return. Malta is one of those destinations that gets under your skin, the history, the warmth of the people, the food, the sheer beauty of the place. It delivered on every level.
And honestly? Getting to plan this whole trip independently and watch it come together so well, that part meant a lot too. This one’s going in the memory bank permanently.
Rating: 10 / 10
Until next time, Malta. 🇲🇹